Wanderlust in Charleston
Exploring the Road less Traveled
By Fritts Causby
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Charleston has more to offer than historic properties, fine dining and high-end boutiques, aircraft carriers and submarines. There are also a wide array of outdoor activities.
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One of my favorites is just relaxing on the deck of a waterfront restaurant. If you like 'mountain' biking, check out the Awendaw Passage (Palmetto Trail). Located around 45 miles outside of the city, it's a perfect place to pull the bikes off the car, go for a run or just stretch the legs and enjoy sweeping views of a pristine saltwater marsh.
The trail winds along the creek for which it is named and is easy to ride for beginners, at least in the starting portion. Experienced bikers will find more of a challenge as the trail moves deeper into the woods, as it gets more ‘rooty’ and technical. With several long wooden bridges traversing the marsh and lots of speed available on the pine straw and packed sand, it is a worthwhile place to stop the car and spend a few hours.
Where to Stay: Of course, the downtown area is full of boutique hotels, historic B&BS, vacation rentals and all the famous brands. For a more relaxing stay outside of the hustle and bustle, the West Ashley area is very convenient. It’s a short distance away from the historic downtown waterfront, art galleries and restaurants, and there are a variety of reasonably priced hotels in the area with free parking, a sharp contrast to the historic district. The strategic location also allows for a visit to Folly Beach, Edisto Beach or Beaufort without crossing the city.
Eat, Drink and Unwind: Everyone knows that the Charleston downtown is home to many fine dining options, art galleries, rooftop bars, museums and shops. If in search of a more laid-back experience, however, California Dreaming should be on the list, as it is a large restaurant with ample parking, floor-to-ceiling glass and multiple terraces that showcase views of the Ashley River. The commercial district in West Ashley is equally enjoyable, as the area has multiple restaurants, shops, bars and breweries that are all in walking distance to each other. A visit to nearby Folly Beach is worth it for the vibrant, West Coast-style downtown area and its many shops, eateries and nightlife options.
Hiking and Biking: The West Ashley greenway is a scenic, eight-mile track that is mostly paved and easy to ride. Located a short distance away from most of the hotels in the area, it cuts through the back of a few neighborhoods before opening onto an exposed gravel path with gorgeous, long-range views of the marsh, making it feel like it’s in the middle of the country. Most of what is available to read about it states that mountain bikes are a must, but a cruiser with big tires would be okay, and certainly more comfortable. Reading about the trek from the north end of Folly to view the Morris Island lighthouse is also a little misleading, as an approximately 40-minute hike to check out a Civil War-era lighthouse that is only accessible by boat does not sound all that appealing on an initial review. Experiencing it firsthand is a different story altogether; proof that it is sometimes a good idea to begin a journey with low expectations.
Next Time: Surfing on the East Coast and especially South Carolina is also something that should be approached with low expectations. Folly is home to a number of great setups, with lots of jetties to break up the swells on the north end, a famous area among surfers known as The Washout, but it’s likely that favorite surfboard could spend the entire vacation in the car. For those who are thirsting for a board-sport experience, a trip to the Charleston skate park should be a priority. With more than 32,000 square feet, it is the largest skate park in South Carolina. There is also a DIY park under the I-26 that was built entirely by local board-riders, an homage to Washington Street in San Diego that blurs the lines between art and sport. If that were not enough, Charleston is home to a thriving music scene.
The Charleston area has a lot to offer for a quick vacation, and the wintertime could be the perfect season for an introduction to the city. Seasonal temperatures are often comfortable, especially when biking alongside a saltwater marsh in the sun, walking a cobblestone street protected from the wind by historic mansions, or dining on a rooftop under a gas heater and watching the sunset. Also, the likelihood of bugs and fellow tourists being prevalent is not as significant as it is in the warmer months. Whether looking to explore the sites that have made the city famous or searching for a breakup from the everyday routine, a trip to Charleston is a great way to spend some downtime.
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Travel Resources & Field Gear
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Navigation & Trail Mapping Exploring the Awendaw Passage and the West Ashley Greenway requires reliable offline maps, especially when moving into the "rooty" and technical sections of the Palmetto Trail. I rely on the Garmin GPSMAP Series for precision tracking in areas where cellular service is intermittent.
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Coastal Transit Gear For a low-stress weekend getaway that involves both city walking and marsh hikes, footwear is the most critical variable. I recommend the Hoka Transport for its stability on the packed sand of Folly Beach and its professional aesthetic for dining at places like California Dreaming.
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Action Documentation Capturing the "West Coast vibe" of the Charleston Skate Park and the DIY spots under I-26 requires a fast, durable camera setup. The Sony Alpha a7R series remains my choice for documenting high-speed movement and architectural details with museum-quality clarity.